"You Are a Vehicle..."

These are the words that Lori said to me as I began my first bicycle ride through Siem Reap.  After I had arrived and settled in, it was time for me to learn how to maneuver through the chaotic traffic of the city.  There are several ways to get around in Siem Reap:

Walking

I rarely see people walking anywhere in Siem Reap, especially in the Wat Bo area where I live.  Sidewalks can be hard to come by and crossing the street can be a little dangerous.  The majority of those walking are either locals pushing a cart of things to sell or are Westerners.  Other than the convenience store a block away, the fried chicken stand across the street, and Two Dragons restaurant just around the corner, I rarely walk anywhere.  I have found that it is so much easier to jump on a bicycle…

Bicycle

For many people, especially those living in poverty, bicycles are the main mode of transportation.  While learning of rules of the road, or the lack of them here, can be a bit intimidating, once you get a hang of it, bike rides can be really exhilarating.  It’s nice to feel the breeze as you weave down the street on a hot day.  While traffic patterns seem strange, compared to at home, bicyclists are more accepted as vehicles on the road here.  In DC, you would be plowed over if you rode a bike the way locals do here.  However, in Siem Reap, when you are on a bicycle, you are a vehicle.  You are recognized on the road…except by those with in Lexuses or Land Rovers…look out for them because they are not looking for you…

 My Bici on the Road out of Angkor Thom

Rules of the Road:

·      Everyone honks their horn here, constantly.  The reason to do so is to let people know that you are passing on the left.  Rather than using it when you are angry, it is used to let people know you are going around them.  This was a little hard to get used to, but it is very helpful when maneuvering through traffic.

·      People don’t stop when going through intersections.  Everyone just goes…and somehow it works.  This was a little hard for me to get comfortable with.  My first day biking with Lori I watched as she effortlessly flew through a crazy intersection.  I on the other hand stopped, panicked at all the traffic, and though that I would end up waiting to cross all day.  However, as I have learned, you (carefully) just have to go.  People are looking out for each other and slow and speed up as necessary.  Amazingly enough it works.

·      Stop signs and red lights are just suggestions.  Don’t expect people to stop for them.  Enough said.

·      One way streets may not be one way.  If you are a foreigner and go the wrong way on one, you probably will be stopped.  If you are a local, no problem.

·      When turning to the left, you should cross over to the left side of the street before your turn facing on coming traffic, hug the curb as you make your turn, and then, when you can, make your way back over to the correct side of the street.  This was also a bit difficult to get used to, particularly when you are headed the wrong way in to on-coming traffic.  However, like the other rules of the road, I have gotten used to and better at doing this as well.

 Gas Station on the Way to Knar Primary School

Moto

Motorcycles are everywhere in Siem Reap.  They seem to be the mode of transport of choice not just for individuals but for entire families.  No need for a min van or SUV when you have a moto!  I still laugh at the site of a father, mother, and their two children all stuffed on the back of a moto.  I have seen motos driving down the street with a passenger carrying and hooked up to an IV.  I have seen a moto with what looked to be grocery store baskets attached to each side to hold children.    Motos with pigs attached to the back going to market.  Motos with twenty or so dead chickens.  Monks on motos.  The list goes on and on….

 Motos Lined up by the Market

 Monk Lounging by Some Motos

While motos are fun, they are also a bit dangerous.  They only cost $1 to get anywhere in town, but your safety is at the mercy of your driver.  And, he doesn’t have a helmet for you…potentially not one for himself either.  I rode with one of our drivers, Sovann, on his moto.  He had taken me to some of the temples in his tuk tuk (read more below).  We got to a place where there was supposed to be an island.  Since the water is so low we were able to take his moto out to it and see the temple and the endless rice fields.  It was a lot of fun!  There is something so exciting about jumping on the back of a moto and heading out into Cambodi’s rice fields…

 Moto through Cambodia's Rice Fields

Not too worry out in the rice fields is the safest place to be riding a moto!

Tuk Tuk

This is the way that most tourists get around Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor Wat.  They are made up of a four seater “buggy” pulled by a motorbike.  Typically one to four people ride in them; however, we have been known to squish a few more in.  Tuk tuks will take you anywhere in town for $2.  They also cost about $15 for the day.

 Tuk Tuk Parked in Downtown Siem Reap

Riding in a Tuk Tuk in Phnom Penh

I really enjoy riding in the tuk tuks.  They go slow enough so that you can still take in everything around you but avoid sitting in one place in the heat of the Cambodia sun.  Seven Candles and the Foundation have four tuk tuk drivers who are used as drivers.  I have had the opportunity to ride with all of them and even have a meal with most of them.  

Chamnam is the first tuk tuk driver that I spent a lot of time with.  He has driven me all around (and I mean all around) the Angkor Wat complex.  I had him tracking down temples that he had never even heard of that I wanted to see.  We were yelling for directions from ladies biking to market as we drove down dirt roads through the countryside looking for temples that sometimes ended up being only a few stones.  Chamnam did get to see some new temples that he hadn’t before.  He had a great time, I just know it…

Sovann is one of the younger tuk tuk drivers who works for the house.  He has gone to dinner with a group of us a few times, taken us to our first Cambodian club (Zone One), and has given me a look into the life of an average Cambodian.  He has worked hard to be where he is today and done a seemingly endless number of jobs.  And, while the life of a tuk tuk driver may not be glamorous, he is doing pretty well for himself.  He is even in a relationship with an American girl who lived in Cambodia for a year who has recently returned. 

Sovann Walking out to His Moto

The other two drivers are Pov and Danny.  Pov has been Lori’s tuk tuk driver since she first came to Cambodia as a tourist.  His wife, Srey, has recently started working at the Guest House as a housekeeper.  He also has a young daughter Tita.  I don’t’ see Danny as much around the Guest House.  I think that he mainly takes tourists out to Angkor Wat and around town.  He has a son who is adorable.

Cars and Vans

While motos, bikes, and tuk tuks rule the road, there are a small number of cars and vans around Siem Reap.  Most of these are for tourists.  You can rent a “taxi” for the day for about $50.  You can take the front seat of a “taxi” to Poipet (the closest border crossing into Thailand about three hours away) for about $10.  The Guest House has one car that is typically reserved for tourists who prefer to travel that way.  When Ponheary gives tours, she also travels in the car.

The Guest House has a van as well that we often use to travel to Koh Ker (about three hours away)  in or when large groups of tourists arrive.  My favorite times in the van have been when we traveled “Cambodian style.”  While the van is made for maybe 11 people or so, in “Cambodian style,” we have put anywhere from 15 to 18 people in it.  It’s a good chance to get to know some members of the Ly family or tourists who have come along for the ride!

 Unfortunately the Van Broke Down on the Way Back from Koh Ker One Day...

But, Now It Has a New Engine and Is as Good as New!

Trying to Capture Riding "Cambodian Style"

This Pictures Doesn't Do It Justice Though...